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Posted on April 1, 2006 by Alphonso Sirtle.. | Posted under Home Improvement
Refinishing Hardwood Floors - A Useful Guide
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Tool ListRefinishing that hardwood floor will take a certain set of tools. You can purchase most of these at your local hardware store, and some retail chains will carry a variety of these. However, some of the larger, power tools would cost a small fortune to purchase for a one time use. I suggest that you rent these from a local rental center if this is the case. 1. A drum sander.2. A floor edger.3. A buffer.4. An orbital or palm sander.5. A putty knife and/or scraper.6. A shop vacuum.7. Dust mask, ear protection, work gloves, and safety goggles.8. Tack clothe, foam applicators, or natural bristle brush and lamb's wool. Clean Is Best The first step is to completely remove all furniture from your hardwood floor. Now, you will want to make sure that all of the carpet or old flooring is stripped from the floor as well. You will need to strip down the hardwood floor of all the old residue, debris, and extra icky stuff that is on your hardwood floor. Sometimes, soap and water is enough; other times, a more industrial strength cleaner will be needed. Remove all the old nails that may be sticking up with a pair of pliers. Sink any exposed nails if they are not crooked. Sweep the area, mop, and let dry thoroughly. You may find it necessary to replace the baseboards as well. If so, make sure to add a layer of protection between the crowbar and the wall so you do not damage your property. I suggest hanging plastic over doorways so that dust and odors do not pass into the rest of your home. Sanding The second step to your refinishing project is to sand the floor. This is noisy, and this is dirty. Wear a dust mask, and also utilize that ear protection I spoke of earlier. If you are new to a drum sander, I suggest you read up on how to best use one. You should always have a set of instructions close at hand if this is new for you. Fit the drum sander with a course sandpaper of about 28 to 36 grit strength. You will sand in a small inconspicuous area first. Turn the drum sander on with the drum part lifted in the air. Slowly, lower the sander onto the wood. This is the tricky part. Many people feel the kick of that drum sander, then the turn it off and call in some help. A drum sander can be a scary piece of machinery for the novice and professional alike. This can do some serious damage to your already ailing hardwood flooring if you do not proceed slowly. However, you should never allow the drum sander to rest in one place for too long. This can cause gouges and whirly streaks in the flooring. Start at one wall, and sand with the grain, to the other wall. Repeat this process in strips and then go the complete opposite of what you just did. You can do touchups with the edge sander. This is also the tool to get close to the baseboards and other tricky spots you couldn't get at first. Use a left to right circular motion with the edge sander so you do not cause gouges. Always remember that you should never allow any sander to be started while on the floor. Always lift it into the air, and then slowly lower the sander into place. Make sure it is moving as soon as it hits. I suggest you start in an area that is not as visible as the others in case you make some errors that can not be sanded out. I know it can all be overwhelming, but this is actually easy once you get the feel of the sander. The Second and Third Sanding Now, you get to change the sandpaper to a medium roughness of about 50-60 grit. Remember, how you went over the floor the first time? Repeat this same procedure for the second sanding as well. Check for any holes, cracks, nails, or other things that may not be right with the hardwood floor. At this point, you should be getting that smooth feel to the hardwood floor. Of course, we have the final, third sanding. For this, use a fine texture of about 80 to 100 grit. This will leave a smooth feel to your floor. You should not see any gouges, cracks, or holes. Be sure to not forget the edges! You should now vacuum and sweep the floor, the walls, and even the ceiling. You do not want any form of debris to be in or near the floor. Whatever you do, do not use moisture on the floor at this point. Any moisture such as from a damp rag will cause the exposed wood to raise. This can put a quick halt to your expedition. Using a buffer, you need to start at the middle of the room using a fine, abrasive screen with about a 100 to 120 grit rating. This will tighten your wood before the final staining process. A buffer will try to pull you this way and that. It is best to get quick control of the buffer, or find someone else who can. Getting That Perfect Finish Now, you have to choose a finish. There are many benefits to a good finish whatever type you choose. This is a whole other topic, so you should research and find the best finish for your home. You should always work in a well ventilated area when using stain. This stuff can be toxic when breathed in. In addition, the best advice I can give for staining is to follow the instructions of the manufacturer. The manufacturer will give the guidelines to applying stain best for your flooring. I would suggest you do your staining on a warm day as well. Moisture will slow down the drying time, so make sure it is a nice, warm day. Icing on the Cake Now comes the time for a finish. There are two common finishes for your to choose from. The oil-modified urethane, also called polyurethane, is a good choice of finishes if you have plenty of time. Oil-based finishes take significantly more time to cure than the water based finish. You will need to apply this until you have 2-3 coats. Be sure to wait for the finish to dry between each coat. The other popular finish is a water0based urethane. This is less toxic, and dries a lot faster than its oil-based cousin. You get a cleaner floor that is also environmentally friendly. You need over three coats of this type of finish. You also have the added benefit of cleaning up with basic soap and water. When you apply the finish, you need to take special care to use even strokes and apply the finish in an even line. I suggest using an old, plastic watering can. You can then dribble the finish out and then spread it evenly and steadily with the sponge applicator. This is time consuming, but the finished product is well worth the trouble. Do this one strip at a time; take your time. Proper Care There is one sure fire way to insure you get the most out of your hardwood floor: preventative maintenance. A finished hardwood floor is a work of love and beauty. Dust, dirt, and other debris can scratch and damage any hardwood floor. It is recommended that you take full advantage of door mats; ask people to remove their shoes when they come into your home. Remember that furniture legs can harm that floor as well. Add protective material between the legs and the floor. You should clean those floors at least once a week with a dust mop or vacuum. I know it may seem like a good idea, but never use a dusting product on your hardwood floors. This has a tendency to dull the finish. When you need to mop that new hardwood floor, you can use a solution of cup white vinegar to about 4 cups of warm water. Better yet, follow the manufacturers directions if you have them. Never use the same mop you use for other floors. They will often carry debris and harmful chemicals no matter how much you clean or soak them. Finally, never use harsh chemicals, abrasive cleaners, or oil soaps on your hardwood floor. This will cause your hardwood floor to dull over time. As is obvious, refinishing hardwood flooring is a true labor of patience and love. What you get in return will last you a lifetime of cherished memories. Set aside a weekend, rent a buffer and sander, and get to work. Your hardwood floor will thank you for generations to come. About The Author: Alphonso has been working in the home remodeling industry for last 5 years. Take advantage of his experience and written material on flooring ideas at his website at http://www.improve-home.com |
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