Textile Printing in India: Traditional Approach

India is a country of diversities. It is rich in various embroidery techniques and printing techniques. Indian tradition is even rich in paintings and we can see that from the paintings of Ajanta murals and miniature paintings. In ancient times, the art of weaving and dyeing on cotton had been well developed, but it developed on silk later. In the fifth century, floral and geometric designs were popular in India and we can find that from the trade between India and Egypt. India is the first one who introduced the art of dyeing and printing with fast natural colors for the first time. For foreign travelers, indigo dyeing was a mysterious process because when the fabric is dipped in indigo bath, there is no color observed. Only when the fabric gets exposure to open air, the colors develop.

The purpose of printing is for the adornment of the textile. Correct co-ordination between human skills and printing machinery is required. Many kind of printing techniques are there, among which screen printing is important one.

Earlier, screen printing was known as silk printing. In that, silk gauge was being used as a screen for printing, so it was known as the silk printing. The design was engraved on the silk gauge and then the color was spread on that. The main benefit of screen printing is that it is cost-effective and large-scale production is possible with it. Screen printing is more advantageous than dye sublimation and inkjet printing. It is normally used for banners and flags. The pioneer of screen printing is Guy Mc Roy.

Printing groups

Hand-block printing is a reputed art and it has been handed down through generations. Ahmedabad in Gujarat is a very important centre for trade of this kind of printed textiles. The South region also has several centers which are well known for prints on cotton. Printing and dyeing were earlier developed in Rajasthan. In Gujarat, wooden block printing was more common. Block printing is rich in vibrant colors, so it became more popular. The processes of creating colors were very simple. A very surprising thing is that the same motif can be used in different forms. Madhya Pradesh also has a different style of printing, which reflects its culture.

The main centers of traditional printing in India are as follows:

- Bhuj, Jamnagar and Ahmedabad in Gujarat.
- Udaipur, Jodhpur, Ajmer, Kota, Bagru, Sanganer and Barmer in Rajsthan.
- Indore, Bagh, Ratlam, Gwalior, Mandsore, Neemach and Ujjain in Madhya Pradesh.
- Varansi, Lucknow, Farukhabad, Kasipur, Kannuaj, Kanpur, Mathura, Mirzapur and Fatehpur in Uttar Pradesh.
- Nasik, Nagpur, Khandesh and Mumbai in Maharasthra.
- Bangalore, Manglore and some parts of north in Karnataka.
- Vijaywada, Chirala, Machalipattanam and Srikalahasti in Andhra Pradesh.
- Kumbarnam, Tanjore, Tuni, Kodalikaruppur and Chennai in Tamil Nadu.
- Sreerampur, Murshidabad and Kolkata in west Bengal.
- Bastar in chattisgarh.

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Textile Printing in India: Traditional Approach